Madanapalle Handloom Silk Sarees

HISTROY OF MADANAPALLI SAREES

• Madanapalli earlier know as Maryada Raamanna Pattanam is also known for silk sarees. There are weavers whose sole livelihood is weaving of silk sarees, and the sarees they weave are known as Madanapalli Silk Sarees. The silk sarees are known for their endearing charm of silk, High quality where grace meets comfort, and sarees that accentuate the beauty of the wearer.
• It is also famous for silk and silk products like sarees and other casuals. The quality of silk product is recognizable. You can get silk sarees here at production cost. Most of these are supplies to Dharmavaram, Kanchipuram, Bangalore for sales.
• The Town is famous for silk and silk Sarees products and quality of silk is remarkable. Madanapalli silk sarees are sought after by women as an ideal pick for weddings and sacred occasions.
• The sarees come with Matching blouse pieces. Madanapalli saree could be in a divine mustered colour adorned with motifs and woven in zari and Pattu (Silk)with distinct pallu motifs or both.
• Madanapalli silks sarees are Mostly Using colours Maroon, Red, Pink & Violet Etc.

RAW MATERIAL DISTINGUINISHNESS
i) SILK(PATTU) :: Silk is a natural protein fibre and is also called as Queen of Textiles because of its lustre, Shine, Strength & Durability. It is produced from the silk worm spins a cocoon round its body by extruding the content of 2 silk glands through spinneret at its mouth. The two filament solidify on coming in content with air and form a compensate thread. The filament is continuous and measures from 340 meters in Indian breed of silk worm to 1800 meters or more in Japanese varieties.
ii) VARIETIES OF SILK :: There are 4 different types of silk each of which is produced by district varieties of silk worm feeding on leaves of certain plans. Mulberry silk Tasar silk Eri silk Muga silk       Mulberry silk is mostly used in Madanapalle Silk Sarees.
iii) PROPERTIES OF SILK a) Physical properties of silk:             Silk is a strong and lustrous fibre. It’s breaking strength is about 4gm per denier, it has elongation of about 20%. Its density is 1.25, it is slightly lighter than cotton, linen or wool. It is very hygroscopic and absorbs as much as 30% of its weight of moisture without the fibre feeling damp. It’s moisture regain in the boiled off state is 9.25% under standard atmospheric conditions. It can be heated to 140 c without decomposition but at 170c it integrates rapidly. It’s surface is easily chafed by abrasion. b) Chemical Properties:             Silk belonging to the protein group built up of amino acids. Silk dissolves in 5% NaOH solution at boil. The hot glacial acetic acid, strong HCL,H2SO4 AND HNO3and in alkaline solutions of the hydroxides of nickel, Zinc and Copper. Hot water impairs the lusture and handle of silk. It has strong affinity for Tannic aid which is used both for weightening & mordanting the fibre silk exhibits both acid and basic qualifies, it has therefore affinity for both acid and Basic dyes. It absorbs dyestuffs at a lower temperature.
iv) PROCESSING OF SILK ::- a)   Degumming of silk:             When degumming silk yarn in the form of hanks, the hanks are suspended on smooth wooden or stainless steel rods in a rectangular vessel containing the soap solution. The yarn is treated at about boiling temperature for 1 to 1 of hours. During which period the fibre swell and become sticky and the gum gets dissolved. The yarn is then removed, washed thoroughly, hydro extracted and dried.
b)   Bleaching of silk:             Most of the colouring matter in raw silk is present in the gum and is removed when the silk is completely degummed. The pure silk fibre is remarkably white in appearance and required bleaching only in special cases such as when a full white fabric it required.
c)   H2O2 Bleaching:             Hydrogen peroxide is the most preferred bleaching agent for silk. It is stable under acidic conditions. Generally a Ph of 8 to 9 is used for bleaching silk goods. Silicate is used as a stabilizer. The material after degumming is entered at 40 0C in a bath containing 2 volume H2O2 and 2 grams per liter Sodium silicate using M:1 = 1:20 The temperature for 1 to 2 hours. Then removed, washed, thoroughly hydro extracted and dried.
d)   Hydrose:                 Commercially degumming and bleaching is carried out in a same bath using mild soap and hydrose at a temperature of boiling for 1 to 2 hours. Then the material is removed, washed, hydro extracted and taken for dyeing.
v)  DYEING OF SILK :: Acid dyes ::-                         Acid bye stuffs derive their name from the fact that most of them are best dyed from an acid dye bath. They consist of sodium salts of sulphonic acid and are therefore anionic in nature. Many acid dyestuff have excellent affinity for silk under neutral conditions and exhaust well at temperature below boil.                         Boiled off liquor is often used for dyeing. It acts as levelling agent and keeps the silk soft and lustrous. The dye bath is set with 100 to 500 ml/lit boiled off liquor and made slightly acidic with Acetic or Formic acid. The material is entered at 500C and run for a short time before adding the dye solution. The dye solution is assed in portions and the temperature for 1 to 1 off hr until the dyeing is complete. If at the end the dye bath is not completely exhausted. 1 to 2% glacial acetic acid is added and dyeing continued for 10 to 15 minutes. After dyeing the silk is rinsed and brightened by working in dilute of Acetic Acid and squeezed and dried without rinsing.
vi) SCOOPING OF SILK ::-                         Another property of silk and one which peculiar to this fibre is that scrooping. This referred to a crackling sound when the fabric is squeezed or rubbed. The scrooping effect of silk is not an inherent property of the fibre. Scrooping effect is acquired when the silk material is worked is worked with dilute acids such as Formic acid, Tannic acid, Acetic acid of 5 CC per liter at room temperature for 10 minutes and dried without washing.

B) PRE-LOOM / PRE-WEAVING ACTIVITIES OF THE PRODUCT

The Madanapalle Handloom Silk saree includes the following pre-loom / pre-weaving practices.

1. Drying of Silk Warps
2. Silk Yarn Winding
3. Pirn Winding process with charka
4. Pre Warp beam preparation
5. Warp beam preparation
6. Process of joining New warp with old warp by Twisting or Knotting

C) MADANAPALLI SILK SAREES WEAVING ::-

	Saree Specifications :  Name of the variety : Wedding Saree Butta style Reed Count : 106 Ends Per Inch : 106(2 Ply) Picks Per Inch : 56(3 Ply) Saree Length : 6.30 Meters Saree Width : 57 Inches Warp Count : 18/22 Denier Weft Count : 20/22 Denier 240 Jacquard using : 3 Machines Saree Weight : 760 Grams		Saree Specifications :  Name of the variety :Running Temple Reed Count : 110 Ends Per Inch : 108(2 Ply) Picks Per Inch : 56(3 Ply) Saree Length : 6.30 Meters Saree Width : 57 Inches Warp Count : 20/22 Denier Weft Count : 20/22 Denier 240 Jacquard using : 3 Machines Saree Weight : 820 Grams
	Saree Specifications :  Name of the variety :Good Morning & Evening Border Style Reed Count : 110 Ends Per Inch : 110(2 Ply) Picks Per Inch : 56(3 Ply) Saree Length : 6.30 Meters Saree Width : 57 Inches Warp Count : 20/22 Denier Weft Count : 20/22 Denier 240 Jacquard using : 3 Machines Saree Weight :770 Grams		Saree Specifications :  Name of the variety :Border Butta Broket Model Reed Count : 110 Ends Per Inch : 110(2 Ply) Picks Per Inch : 58(3 Ply) Saree Length : 6.30 Meters Saree Width : 58Inches Warp Count : 20/22 Denier Weft Count : 20/22 Denier 480 Jacquard using : 1 Machine Centre using jacquard 240 Machine Saree Weight :850 Grams

D. Madanapalli Butta Silk Sarees

E. CONCLUSION ::

                      Silk weaving in Andhra Pradesh plays an important role of economic of the state, it given employment to lacks of people directly and indirectly, Madanapalli is being a silk weaving centre, many weavers are engaged in the silk sarees weaving.

                 As a result of the cluster development programmes and other skill development programmes, has improved the skills of the weavers, in creating new designs and implementing new techniques. Weavers are also getting more wages because of weaving intricate designs.

ONE DISTRICT ONE PRODUCT INITIATIVE

1. a) LIST OF PRODUCTS OF ANNAMAYYA DISTRICT ::-

• Madanapalle Handloom Silk Sarees
• Raja Rani Dolls

        b) Action plan report of Annamayya Dist. for ODOP

1. 1. Identify & map the familiar product of the district, that can be focused commercially and linked to domestic and international markets.
   2. Identify inputs on design, packaging, branding & logistics & facilitate interventions to standardize product quality and bring scale to meet National and International needs.
   3. Roadmap for Training and Up-Skilling in the identified cluster/product.
   4. Establish Market Linkages (Digital E-Marketing/B2B/B2C Transactions; Direct procurement/gather market intelligence & trends)
   5. Build Mechanism to converge all GoI Schemes (MSME, CDP, for tech upgradation.  Build District Cluster/Product capacities to meet international standards.
   6. To converge the State Government Schemes like YSR Nethanna Nestham for improvement of working capital issues.
   7. Identify Key performance indicators/Parameters for regular monitoring and ensure value garnered.
   8. Constitute a ‘District Level Committee’ Chaired by District Collector with all relevant departments as members.
   9. Setting up of Targets at cluster level in terms of a) Products Promoted b) Enhancement in Income c) Improved Market access.
   10. Cross Sectoral collaborations with associations and experts: CII; MSME Associations; Amazon/Flipkart and leading E-Commerce players are keen to explore this.

II. Details of District Nodal Officer, Nodal Department & dedicated team for ODOP

1. 1. Nodal Officer & Department

Sri.P.Sreenivasa Reddy,

Dist. Handlooms & Textiles Officer,

Department of Handlooms & Textiles,

Rayachoti, Annamayya Dist.  A.P.

     b. Dedicated Team for ODOP

    c. Dedicated Helpline or Call Centre for ODOP

III.  LIST OF ACTIVITIES BEING UNDERTAKEN BY DISTRICT ADMINISTRATION FOR ODOP INITIATIVE

IV. Details of ODOP sensitization workshop being conducted for current stakeholders and next generation stakeholders

A total no. of 6 Workshops are conducted for sensitization towards the ODOP initiative to the Stakeholders at Angallu Village, Kurubalakota Mandal and also at Madanapalle town.

V. List of mentors registered with District to provide mentorship to beneficiaries

VI. Details by Account Holder of all transactions (sales)

                        The details of sales transactions and turnovers are being audited by the Statutory Auditor / C.A. regularly.   The estimated sales turnover of all the firms / organisations involved in the product is arrived at Rs.175.00 crores for the F.Y. 2022-23.  The process of audit of accounts is under process.

VII. Mentorship support available with clearly laid out procedures to avail the same ::-

                        The Department of Handlooms and Textiles is implementing various programmes for imparting trainings and to upgrade the skill upgradation.   Programmes are also been conducted for supply of improvised and modernized tools and equipment to product more compete varieties of product.   A number of 35 Primary Weavers Cooperative Societies, 24 master weavers, 10 Weavers Entrepreneurs, 6 SHGs are working for the artisans involved in the production of ODOP product, to improve their skills and product development and also in promoting the sales of the product and to get higher profit and recognition.

VIII.  Funding support available, with clear laid out procedures to avail the same ::

                        The Government of India and as Well as State Government are providing financial support to the artisans of Madanapalle Handloom Silk Sarees under the following Schemes.

• G O I Schemes :: 

1. 1. Pradhan Mantri Mudra Loans for Handloom Weavers.
   2. Cluster Development Programmes
   3. Training programmes under SAMARTH scheme.
   4. Supply of HSS items to the artisans in un-organized Sector.
   5. Marketing Incentive to promote the sales of the products.
   6. PMJJBY and PMSBY for Handloom Weavers with matching share of contribution.
   7. Handloom Expos / Exhibitions / Melas for promoting the sales of product.

• State Govt. Schemes ::-

      The Government of Andhra Pradesh is implementing various schemes

1. YSR NETHANNA NESTHAM
2. YSR PENSION KANUKA SPECIALLY FOR WEAVERS
3. AASARA
4. SALES THROUGH OF APCO

IX.  Details of rules, regulations, Act, Govt Schemes introduced or amended to propel the ODOP initiative in the district

Madanapalle Handloom Saree involves the traditional and exclusive craft of weaving which is a product to be made on Handlooms Only. The product is protected to produce on the Handlooms only, under Handloom (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act and a separate machinery is established for protection of the product and to curb the production of the same on Powerloom.

X.   Details of Quality Assurance Labs/Certification Labs/Processing Units/Quality Infrastructure with Contact Details ::

• Madanapalli Handloom Silk Sarees will be made up of Pure Silk yarn which is a natural fiber. For this the product is backed up with Silk Mark granted by the Government.
• The Madanapalli Handloom Silk Saree is also having “Handloom Mark” protection to enable the consumer to get the genuine product only.
• Various labs are established to certify the quality of the Silk yarn used in the product and also make up of the product on handloom only, at Nagari, Chennai.

XI.  Details of department providing institutional support to beneficiaries availing support under ODOP initiative

         The following Departments from the State and Central are providing institutional support to the artisans of Madanapalle Handloom Silk Saree.

1. Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Andhra Pradesh.
2. The A.P. State Handloom Weavers Coop Society (APCO), Vijayawada
3. N A B A R D
4. Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, New Delhi
5. Weavers Service Centre, Vijayawada
6. National Handloom Development Corporation, Vijayawada.
7. AP Khadi Village and Industries Board, Vijaywada.
8. Khadi and Village Industries Commission, Mumbai.
9. Department of Industries, Andhra Pradesh.
10. District Rural Development Agency (D.R.D.A.), Andhra Pradesh.
11. Handloom Export Promotion Council, Chennai.